A Moment for Mulch in the Spring

Mulch doesn't exactly get all the landscaping glory but it’s easily one of the highest-impact things you can do for your yard without spending a fortune or tearing up your lawn. When you do it right, your house looks sharp, your plants thrive, and you spend way less time watering and weeding. 

Why Mulch Actually Matters

Let’s start with why we even bother, because this is where mulch quietly earns its keep:

• It holds the water: A good layer acts like a sponge, meaning you don't have to water constantly during those brutal July and August heatwaves.

• It controls the thermostat: It keeps roots cooler in the summer and acts as a cozy blanket during cold snaps.

• It chokes out weeds: By blocking the sunlight, it stops weeds before they even start.

• It feeds the dirt: As natural mulch breaks down, it actively adds organic matter back into your soil.

Timing is Everything

Don't rush out the first time it hits 50 degrees. The sweet spot around here is mid-to-late spring when the soil actually has a chance to warm up. If you mulch while the ground is still cold and wet, you trap that chill in the soil and stunt your plants. Wait too long, and you miss out on locking in that spring moisture. A light top-off in the fall helps protect roots for winter, but spring is definitely your main event. Be sure to wait until the pollen has fallen too. 

Picking the Right Stuff

Not all mulch is created equal. Here is the quick rundown:

• Shredded Hardwood: The reliable workhorse. It’s an affordable, all-around choice that stays put in the rain and breaks down at a decent pace.

• Bark Nuggets: Looks super clean and lasts longer, but has a nasty habit of sliding down slopes during heavy rain.

• Dyed Mulch (Black, Brown, Red): Gives you that instant crisp, uniform look. Just remember it’s mostly for aesthetics and it breaks down slowly, so it doesn't do much to improve soil health.

• Natural/Compost/Straw: The absolute best bet if you want to boost your soil, especially for vegetable gardens.

The Golden Rule: 2 to 3 Inches

This is where things usually go off the rails. You want a layer about 2 to 3 inches deep. Any less, and weeds will just push right through. Any more, and you risk suffocating your plants and trapping too much moisture.

Crucial Tip: Keep the mulch a few inches away from the actual base of your trees and shrubs. Piling it up against the trunk creates those infamous "mulch volcanoes," which just invite rot, pests, and long-term damage. Let the trunk breathe!

A Little Prep Goes a Long Way

Before you start dumping bags, take a few minutes to prep the area. Yank the existing weeds, cut a clean edge with a spade, and loosen the dirt a bit if it's super compacted. If you want to use weed fabric, make sure it’s breathable. You'll still need to do occasional maintenance as dirt and leaves break down and birds drop seeds that will sprout on top of it.

Getting it Down

Keep it simple. Drop small piles throughout your garden beds, then spread it out evenly with a rake (or your hands, just wear gloves unless you really love splinters). Step back every few minutes; this is one of those jobs where eyeballing it from a distance helps keep things looking consistent.

Mulching is basically a cheat code for a great-looking yard. Do it once, do it right, and you get to spend the rest of the season actually enjoying your landscape instead of working in it. Which, let's be real, is the whole point.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

A Power Washing Problem

This time of year, you can spot it all over town. The first warm weekend hits, someone drags out a power washer, and suddenly every surface around the house is getting blasted.

On the surface, it feels productive. The house looks cleaner and the grime disappears. You stand back and think, great, my spring cleaning is done. The problem is, power washing is one of the easiest ways to accidentally damage your home if you don’t know what you’re doing.

I see it every spring. The biggest misconception is that more pressure equals a better clean. But it really means you’re forcing water into places it shouldn’t go or stripping away materials that are supposed to protect your home.

Take siding, for example. Vinyl siding is designed to shed water, not withstand high-pressure spray at close range. Aim a pressure washer upward or get too close, and you can drive water behind the panels. That moisture gets trapped and over time it can lead to mold, mildew, and even rot in the structure underneath.

Wood is even less forgiving. We’ve seen plenty of decks and trim that looked fine before a weekend cleaning and came out rough, splintered, and permanently damaged. Once you tear up the surface fibers of wood, you can’t undo it. You’re sanding, repairing, or replacing it entirely.

Then there are windows. High-pressure water can break seals, force moisture into frames, and shorten the lifespan of the window itself. Again, it might not show up immediately, but it’s the kind of damage that creeps in over time.

And don’t forget about paint. A pressure washer in the wrong hands can strip paint right off siding and trim. Sometimes people think they’re “prepping” a surface and end up creating a much bigger project than they planned for.

So what’s the right way to do it?

First, understand that most homes don’t need high pressure at all. What they need is the right cleaning solution and a controlled rinse. A soft wash with low pressure, combined with a cleaner that breaks down dirt, algae, and mildew is usually far more effective and a lot safer. One of my favorite products is Wet It and Forget it which doesn’t require any pressure washing at all and is great at removing common outdoor stains and grime.

Second, distance matters. Standing too close is where most of the damage happens. If you’re using a pressure washer, keep your distance and let the water do the work gradually instead of trying to blast everything off in one pass.

Third, know what you’re cleaning. Concrete can handle pressure. Your siding, trim, windows, and deck? Not in the same way. Treating everything the same is where people get into trouble.

Lastly, timing matters. Early spring is a great time to clean up your home’s exterior but it’s also when materials are still coming off a long winter. They’re not always in their strongest condition, which makes aggressive cleaning even riskier.

The goal here isn’t to scare you off from cleaning your house. It’s to do it in a way that actually helps instead of quietly creating problems you won’t notice until later. If you’re going to power wash this spring, ease up on the trigger. Your house will thank you for it.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Five Ways To Take Control of Indoor Air During Pollen Season

Spring in Connecticut looks great on social media, but in real life, pollen season can be a pain for allergy sufferers. If your eyes are itchy, your throat feels scratchy, and your sleep is off, that’s not just “spring vibes.” That’s your body reacting to what’s in the air.

And here’s the part most people miss: you can shut your front door, but pollen still gets in. It rides in on your clothes, your kids, your dog, your groceries and then settles into your rugs, couches, and vents. So now your “safe space” is basically recirculating the problem.

The fix for indoor air isn’t complicated, but you do have to be a little intentional.

1. Start with the air you’re actually breathing. A HEPA air purifier isn’t a luxury this time of year, it’s a baseline. These filters are built to catch the stuff that’s making you miserable: pollen, dust, and pet dander. Put one in the rooms you use the most, especially bedrooms, and let it run. Constantly. Not “once in a while when it feels bad.” If you want to go one step further, look for a unit with a carbon filter. It’ll help with odors and other irritants that pile onto the problem.

2. Next: stop inviting pollen inside. Yes, open windows feel amazing. They also undo everything you’re trying to fix. On high pollen days, keep them closed and run your AC instead. Your HVAC system should have a decent filter (MERV 11 or higher) and it needs to be changed regularly. I recommend every month or two during peak season.

3. Create a drop zone and actually use it. Shoes off at the door, jackets stay by the entry, and bags don’t make it to the kitchen counter. This isn’t about being tidy; it’s about stopping pollen from spreading through your house. Also, if you’ve been outside for a while, change your clothes and think about changing your shower routine to nighttime so you’re not sleeping with pollen in your hair. 

4. Clean like it matters, because it does. Pollen settles into everything soft. Vacuum at least once or twice a week with a HEPA vacuum, and don’t just hit the obvious spots. Upholstery counts, so do corners and edges. If you want to go further, steam cleaning can help pull out what regular vacuuming leaves behind.

5. Be smart about “fresh air” inside. Plants can help, but not all of them. Skip anything heavily fragrant or pollen-producing and stick with low-maintenance options like snake plants or peace lilies. And keep an eye on the soil, mold in a plant pot will absolutely make things worse.

You’re not going to eliminate pollen. But you can stop your home from becoming a storage unit for it. A few targeted changes like cleaner air, better filters and tighter routines can mean better sleep, clearer sinuses, and fewer days feeling like you’re fighting your own house.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.