Painting Over Mold? Here’s Why It Always Comes Back

Mold stains inside a house are a common homeowner headache, and many people think a fresh coat of paint will fix them. Many people don’t realize that while they might temporarily fix the problem with a bucket and brush, mold won't disappear with a quick fix. 

Why Paint Can’t Cover Mold

Mold is in fact a living organism, not a stain. It feeds on drywall paper, wood, dust, and just about anything else organic, and it thrives where things stay damp. Paint over it, and you’ve sealed it under a layer of latex in a warm, dark spot with plenty of moisture. That’s ideal growing conditions.

Even paints labeled “mold-resistant” can’t kill what’s already there. They’re meant to make it harder for new spores to settle in, but a problem that’s already established isn't going to go away by covering it. Once mold has started to grow, it keeps eating and spreading until it breaks through the surface again. If you’ve painted over mold before and it keeps returning, that’s the reason why. 

More Than a Cosmetic Problem

Mold is more than an eyesore. Long-term exposure can aggravate allergies, trigger asthma, and irritate the lungs, especially for children, older adults, and anyone with a weakened immune system. Even when the air in your home seems fine, hidden mold can quietly erode air quality. If it creeps into insulation, behind drywall, or under flooring, the repair bill grows right along with it.

The Right Way to Fix It

Before any paint comes out, you need to deal with both the mold and the moisture feeding it. Here’s the order that works:

1. Track down the moisture. Look for a roof leak, a plumbing problem, poor ventilation, or condensation. Fix the source first, or the mold will keep coming back. Lackluster bathroom fans are a common culprit.

2. Kill the mold. For areas under 10 square feet, you can usually tackle it yourself. Wear gloves, a mask, and goggles, and choose a cleaner made to kill mold rather than relying on bleach alone. Bleach can lighten the stain and make mold look gone when it isn’t.

3. Remove what’s damaged. If mold has worked its way into drywall, insulation, or wood, that material has to go. Scrubbing won’t reach spores rooted in porous surfaces.

4. Dry everything thoroughly. Run fans and a dehumidifier. Any leftover dampness invites mold to start over.

5. Prime and repaint. Once the area is clean, dry, and solid, apply a quality primer made for problem areas, then paint. Products designed for bathrooms and other damp spaces help guard against a repeat.

Prevent Instead of Patch

After the hard work is done, prevention keeps it done. Improve ventilation, keep indoor humidity below 50%, and fix leaks as soon as you spot them. Think long-term, too: good insulation, vapor barriers, and regular roof and gutter maintenance all help keep moisture and mold outside where they belong.

It’s Your Health and Home

Painting over mold is the home-improvement version of spraying air freshener into a garbage can. It covers up the problem without solving it. The only real fix is to stop it at the source.

So before you pick up that roller, find out what’s causing the moisture and deal with the mold the right way. It’ll save you time, money, and possibly your lungs.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

With Leaves Coming Down, Watch How Water Moves Around Your Home

After a very dry October, it’s easy to forget about rain. But with precipitation in the forecast and leaves coming down across Connecticut, now is a good time to see how water moves around your house. A lawn full of leaves is hard to miss, but a clogged gutter or a blocked downspout can go unnoticed until the weather turns wet and the water has nowhere to go.

You don’t need a ladder to learn something useful. A covered porch, a doorway, or a safe spot on the ground will give you a good view of your gutters while it rains, and you can learn a lot in ten or fifteen minutes.

Start with the gutters. In an ordinary rain, water should flow along them toward the downspouts without spilling over the edge. If you see a waterfall above the front door or water pouring off one corner, something needs a closer look.

Leaves and debris are one possible cause, but they aren’t the only one. A gutter may have pulled away from the house, developed a leaky joint, or lost the slight slope that keeps water moving, and clearing out a blockage won’t fix a gutter that no longer drains properly.

Also notice whether water runs behind the gutter instead of into it. That can point to a problem where the roof edge and gutter meet, and repeated wetting can damage the wood along the roofline. It’s worth having the cause checked before a stain or soft spot makes it obvious.

Roof valleys, where two slopes come together and send runoff toward the gutters, can also collect leaves and twigs. You can look for buildup from the ground, but leave the close inspection and cleanup to someone equipped to work safely on a roof.

Next, follow the downspouts. Is water coming out where you expect it? A gutter can look clear while a clog farther down keeps the system from draining, so watch for water backing up or escaping at a connection.

At ground level, make sure the bottom of the downspout isn’t buried under leaves and that any extension is still connected and carrying water away from the foundation. An extension knocked loose during mowing or yard cleanup can leave roof runoff emptying right beside the house.

That brings us to the yard. Does water move away from the house, or does it collect against it? A puddle that keeps forming along the foundation is a warning sign, and so is runoff that crosses a walkway or pools at the bottom of basement steps.

Clear leaves from accessible drain covers and basement stairwells before they pack into a wet mat, and keep window wells free of debris, too. These small, easily overlooked spots can become collection points for water.

After the rain, check inside. A new ceiling stain, a damp basement corner, or a musty smell is worth investigating. Take a photo and note when it appeared, since water can travel before it becomes visible indoors and the spot you see may not be directly beneath the source.

There’s no need to head outside during thunder, strong wind, or heavy rain. Watch what you can from a safe spot, and call a pro if water is running behind the gutter, a section is sagging, or you see stains inside. Anything that requires climbing or getting onto the roof should be left to someone equipped to do it safely.

One fall cleanup may not finish the job while the trees are still dropping leaves, so check again as the season moves along. Clogged gutters that freeze can lead to ice dams, frozen downspouts, and water freezing against the foundation. A little attention on the next rainy day can help you catch a drainage problem before winter makes it harder to fix.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Find Out Where the Cold Is Coming From Before You Turn Up the Thermostat

There’s a routine I hear about from a lot of Connecticut homeowners this time of year. You sit down in your favorite chair after dinner, feel a chill, and head for the thermostat. An hour later, the kitchen is toasty, the upstairs is stuffy, and your feet are still cold.

Before you bump the heat up another degree, take a walk around the house. More often than not, the culprit is something small that’s been there since last winter.

Start with where you feel it.

Is it the whole house, one room, or just the chair by the window? Does it get worse when the wind picks up? Is the room fine in the afternoon but cold after sundown? Those answers will point you toward the problem faster than the thermostat will.

Check the windows and doors.

Make sure your windows are fully closed and locked. I know that sounds too obvious, but a window that was open on one of those warm October afternoons doesn’t always get sealed properly when it’s shut again. The lock helps pull the sashes together snugly.

On a breezy day, run your hand around the window edges and trim, then do the same around your exterior doors. If you feel air moving, look at the weatherstripping. It flattens, cracks, and comes loose over time. Check the door sweep at the bottom, too. A worn one is often the reason for cold ankles.

Feeling a draft doesn’t automatically mean you need new windows or doors. Often a repair or fresh weatherstripping does the job. Find the problem first, then decide on the fix.

Look at your furniture.

A couch pushed against a baseboard heater or a rug over a floor register keeps heat from getting into the room, and long curtains can do the same thing. Keep heating equipment and return-air vents clear, and follow the manufacturer’s clearance requirements. The furniture layout that worked all summer may need a small adjustment now.

Make your window coverings work for you.

Open them when the sun is shining in, then close them at night to cut down on heat loss. Just keep curtains well away from any heaters. And if your favorite chair sits right next to a big window, sliding it a couple of feet into the room might be all it takes to make your evenings more comfortable.

Don’t forget the filter.

If you have forced-air heat, check the filter according to your system’s instructions, because a dirty one restricts airflow. If you’re not sure which filter to use or how often to change it, ask your heating technician. And if a room suddenly stops getting heat, have the system looked at instead of turning up the thermostat to compensate.

Think beyond windows and doors.

Windows and doors get most of the blame because we sit and walk next to them, but they’re not the only places air sneaks in. Check around the attic hatch, plumbing pipes, and anywhere wiring passes through the house.

That said, please don’t head into the attic with a can of spray foam and seal everything you see. Some openings need to stay clear, and areas around chimneys and heating equipment need special care. If the house is uncomfortable all the time, a professional home energy assessment can pinpoint air leaks, insulation needs, and other causes.

Keep a list.

As you walk around, jot down the room, what you feel, and when it happens. It’s useful whether you end up making a simple repair yourself or calling someone in, because it saves a lot of guesswork.

There’s nothing wrong with turning up the heat when you need it. But before you spend the winter fiddling with the thermostat, give the house a little attention. A few easy fixes might be all it takes to get that chair comfortable again.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.