Your Winter Water Heater Tune-Up Guide

Your Winter Water Heater Tune-Up Guide

When the cold creeps in and the snow starts to pile up, there’s nothing worse than realizing your hot shower just turned into an arctic plunge. Winter is hard enough without water heater problems and the good news is, a little preventative maintenance now can save you from a mid-January cold-water crisis later. Here are a few easy, DIY-friendly steps to keep your water heater running efficiently all season long.

1. Give It a Little Elbow Room

Your water heater works best when it can breathe. Head down to the basement and make sure there’s at least two feet of clearance around the unit. Over time, storage boxes, paint cans, or the kids’ old hockey gear tend to creep closer. Clear that space so air can circulate and you have easy access for inspection and maintenance.

2. Check the Temperature Setting

If you’ve never looked at your water heater’s thermostat, now’s the time. Set it to 120°F - that’s the sweet spot for most homes. Any higher and you risk scalding (especially if you have little ones), plus you’ll waste energy heating water hotter than you need. Any lower and you might invite bacteria to grow. It’s a quick twist of a dial that can make a big difference in comfort and safety.

3. Flush Out Sediment (It’s Easier Than It Sounds)

Connecticut’s water tends to be mineral-rich, which means sediment can build up in the tank over time. That layer of grit forces your heater to work harder and can even make popping or rumbling noises. To flush it:

• Turn off the power (or gas supply).

• Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom.

• Run the other end to a floor drain or outside.

• Open the valve and let the tank drain until clear.

If it’s been years since your last flush, you may need to repeat the process. This simple step can extend the life of your heater and improve efficiency. Just make sure you close the valve tightly when you’re done.

4. Insulate for Efficiency

Your hot water heater loses heat through its tank and pipes, especially if it lives in a chilly basement. Wrapping it in an insulating blanket (available at any hardware store) can help retain warmth, meaning your system doesn’t have to work as hard.

Also insulate the first six feet of hot and cold water pipes coming from the tank. Foam pipe sleeves are inexpensive and take just minutes to install. It’s one of those small upgrades that pays for itself fast in energy savings.

5. Test the Pressure Relief Valve

This valve is a key safety feature that releases pressure if the tank gets too hot. To test it, place a bucket under the discharge pipe, then lift the valve’s lever gently. You should hear water or air escape briefly. If nothing happens, or it leaks afterward, it’s time to replace the valve. Don’t skip this one; it’s a simple check that can prevent dangerous pressure buildup.

6. Mind the Anode Rod

Your water heater’s anode rod is like a sacrificial hero - it attracts corrosive minerals so your tank doesn’t rust. But it wears out over time. Every few years, check it by unscrewing the hex head at the top of the tank (you might need a socket wrench). If the rod looks thin or coated in calcium, replace it. It’s a $20 part that can add years to your heater’s life.

7. Keep an Eye Out for Trouble Signs

Rusty water, strange noises, or puddles around the base of your heater are all warning flags. A little condensation on cold days is normal but leaks are not. If you see rust or corrosion near fittings, or your water takes longer to heat up, call in a professional before winter really sets in.

8. Know When to Call the Pros

While most of these steps are DIY-friendly, there are times to tag in an expert. If you smell gas, see scorch marks, or aren’t comfortable handling electrical or plumbing components, stop and call a licensed technician. It’s always better (and cheaper) to fix a small issue early than replace the whole system later.

9. Bonus: Plan Ahead for Replacement

If your water heater is over 10 years old, start budgeting for a replacement. Even a well-maintained tank won’t last forever, and Connecticut’s freezing winters are not kind to aging systems. Newer models are more energy-efficient and often eligible for utility rebates, so upgrading might save you more than you think.

A little attention now keeps the hot water flowing and your winter mornings comfortable. Whether it’s flushing out sediment, tightening valves, or adding insulation, these small steps add up to big peace of mind. 

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Painting Over Mold? The Truth About ‘Quick Fixes’

Mold is unsightly, and I understand that nobody wants to stare at a dark, blotchy patch on their bathroom ceiling or basement wall. Sure, a quick coat of paint seems like an easy way to make the problem disappear. But here’s the thing about “quick fixes”: they’re rarely fixes at all. Especially when it comes to mold.

Painting over mold is one of those home myths that just won’t die. It looks better for a little while, sure. But underneath that shiny new layer of paint, the problem is still there and it’s growing, spreading, and getting ready to bubble its way back to the surface.

Let’s talk about why this happens, what it means for your home, and the right way to deal with it (so you’re not repainting again next month).

Why Paint and Mold Don’t Mix

Mold is a living organism, not a stain. It feeds on organic material like drywall paper, wood, dust, and anything else it can digest. It also thrives in damp, humid environments. When you paint over mold, you’re basically trapping that living organism under a layer of latex and giving it a warm, dark place to multiply.

Even paints labeled as “mold-resistant” don’t kill existing mold; they simply make it harder for new spores to take hold. Think of them as preventive, not curative. Once mold has already started to grow, those spores will continue doing what they do best - eating, spreading, and eventually breaking through the surface again.

That’s why the dark spots you “covered up” always seem to come back, no matter how many coats you roll on. You didn’t solve the problem. You just hid it temporarily.

The Real Risk Isn’t Just Cosmetic

Mold isn’t just an eyesore. Prolonged exposure to mold spores can aggravate allergies, trigger asthma, and cause respiratory irritation, especially in kids, older adults, and anyone with a compromised immune system. Even if your home’s air feels fine, hidden mold can create ongoing air quality problems that only get worse over time. And if it spreads into insulation, behind drywall, or under flooring, you’re looking at a much bigger repair bill later.

So no, it’s not “just a little spot.” It’s a sign of a deeper moisture issue that needs your attention.

How to Fix It the Right Way

Before you paint, you have to address two things: the mold itself and the source of the moisture that caused it. Here’s the right order of operations:

1. Find the moisture source. Is there a roof leak, poor ventilation, a plumbing issue, or a condensation problem? Fix that first. Otherwise, the mold will just come back.

2. Kill the mold. For small areas (less than 10 square feet), you can usually handle it yourself. Wear gloves, a mask, and goggles, and use a cleaner designed to kill mold, not just bleach. Bleach can discolor mold, making it look gone when it isn’t.

3. Remove damaged material. If the mold has eaten into drywall, insulation, or wood, those materials need to go. Scraping and cleaning won’t cut it if the spores have taken root inside porous surfaces.

4. Dry the area completely. Fans and dehumidifiers are your friends. Moisture left behind is an open invitation for mold to start over.

5. Seal and repaint. Once the area is clean, dry, and sound, use a high-quality primer made for problem areas before painting. Products designed for bathrooms or basements help prevent future issues.

Prevent, Don’t Patch

Once you’ve done the hard work, prevention is your best defense. That means improving ventilation, keeping humidity below 50%, and addressing leaks immediately. It also means thinking long-term. Proper insulation, vapor barriers, and routine roof and gutter maintenance all play a role in keeping moisture (and mold) out.

Final Thoughts

Painting over mold might make things look better for a while, but it’s the home-improvement equivalent of spraying air freshener in a garbage can. The only real solution is to stop the problem at the source.

So, before you pick up that roller, step back, figure out what’s causing the moisture, and deal with the mold properly. It’ll save you time, money, and maybe even your lungs.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Tackle Fall Leaves the Smart Way

If you live in New England, you already know the drill: one day your lawn looks perfect, and the next it’s buried under a crunchy blanket of red, orange, and gold. While a few leaves can add charm, too many can smother your grass, invite pests, and cause slippery walkways. But before you grab the rake and start waging war, there’s a better, smarter way to manage your autumn cleanup.

The Case for Raking (and When to Do It)

When leaves pile up, they block sunlight and trap moisture, creating the perfect environment for mold, disease, and dead patches of grass. That’s why timing is everything. Start raking when about half your trees have dropped their leaves, and again right before the first snowfall. If you wait until every last leaf has fallen, you’ll end up with a soggy, compacted mess that’s harder to remove.

Dry days are your best friend. Wet leaves are heavier, stickier, and can quickly clog your rake. Choose a breezy, low-humidity afternoon, and work in sections so you’re not battling the whole yard at once.

Tools of the Trade

Not all rakes are created equal. A classic 24-inch plastic or poly rake is light, flexible, and easy on the back. Metal rakes are great for tough patches or wet leaves but can tear delicate turf. Some homeowners swear by “no-clog” rakes, which use tines spaced wider apart so leaves don’t stick.

If you want to save serious time, consider upgrading to a leaf blower or a mulching mower. A blower makes short work of large yards, while a mulching mower chops leaves into fine pieces that decompose right into your lawn, creating essentially free fertilizer.

Rake Smarter, Not Harder

Most people make one big mistake: raking randomly. Instead, start along your lawn’s perimeter and work inward, moving leaves onto a large tarp. When the tarp fills, drag it to your compost pile or curbside leaf collection. It’s faster and saves your back from hundreds of bending motions.

Use the wind to your advantage, not against it. Rake with the wind direction, not into it. And if your neighborhood allows curbside collection, check the schedule. There’s nothing worse than finishing your raking marathon only to watch your neatly raked piles blow around for two rainy weeks.

Mulch, Compost, or Bag?

Each option has its perks. Mulching leaves with your mower saves time, enriches your soil, and supports beneficial organisms in your lawn. Composting is another eco-friendly choice - just mix dry leaves with green materials like grass clippings or kitchen scraps for the perfect compost balance.

Bagging, while less sustainable, is sometimes unavoidable, especially if your town requires it. If so, look for biodegradable paper bags rather than plastic. Your local transfer station or public works department likely has them in stock.

Protect Your Lawn and Yourself

Don’t overlook safety and comfort. Wear gloves to avoid blisters, sturdy shoes for traction, and long sleeves to fend off scratches and ticks. Stretch before and after - yes, really - because leaf raking can burn up to 300 calories an hour. Think of it as an outdoor workout with built-in results.

When you’re done, give your lawn one final low-cut mow to keep it neat through winter. It’ll help prevent matting and give new spring grass room to grow.

When “Leaving the Leaves” Makes Sense

Here’s the good news: not every leaf has to go. A thin layer - an inch or less - can actually benefit your lawn and garden beds. It insulates soil, supports pollinators, and provides nutrients as it breaks down. The key is moderation: too many leaves smother grass, too few miss out on the natural benefits.

If you’ve got wooded or low-traffic areas on your property, consider leaving the leaves there entirely. It’s a small but powerful way to support local ecosystems and save yourself a few hours of weekend labor.

Fall cleanup doesn’t have to be a back-breaking battle. With the right timing, tools, and strategy, you can protect your lawn, help the environment, and maybe even enjoy more of the season in the process.