Beat the Humidity and Protect Your Home This Summer

Summer weather is upon us and it won’t be long before we start to complain to each other about the humidity. For the most part, I enjoy the heat, but the hot, sticky moisture that comes along with it can be a real drag this time of year.

Most people combat humidity by using air conditioners, and while they can reduce the moisture in the air to some degree, this is by no means their primary function. An air conditioner works by sucking the air from your home, cooling it, and blowing it back into the house. That process does reduce the humidity slightly, but pairing your air conditioner with a dehumidifier is the best way to cool down your home so you can sleep more comfortably at night.

A dehumidifier works by pulling the moisture out of the air and storing the excess water in a holding tank. Many people keep dehumidifiers in their basement all year long to control the dampness that can often be felt in these underground areas. This is a great idea because controlling the humidity in the dampest part of your home will very likely help to regulate the rest of the house.  One way to know if you’re house is holding a lot of moisture is to purchase a simple five-dollar humidity gauge from the local hardware store. Ideally, you want the humidity to be under 50%. If it’s higher, you might want to consider using a dehumidifier in the main part of your home, especially on hot summer days and in areas where you spend the most time.

In addition to cooling the air and decreasing moisture, running a dehumidifier during the hottest parts of the hottest days can also prevent mold and mildew growth, eliminate musty odors in the home, and prevent old pipes from sweating. Plus, you can use the water collected in the tank to give your outdoor plants a good drink! Dehumidifiers generally run on about half the energy of an air conditioning unit, so as long as you don’t run them all day, using one shouldn’t affect your energy bill. Just be sure to keep windows and doors closed when you run your unit, and only switch the power on during the most humid time of the day, or when the air is above 50 percent humidity.

Be aware that dehumidifiers by nature are drying, so try not to run them while you’re occupying the room over a long period of time, like when you’re sleeping at night. Also, be careful about using dehumidifiers in conjunction with an attic fan. I see people do this all the time and they unintentionally throw the excess moisture from their home or basement up into their attic, where it has no place to escape.

If you’re thinking that a dehumidifier might be a good solution for you, they come in different sizes and can be used for residential or commercial purposes. Generally, a unit will come in 25, 30 and 40-pint models, and on average a 25-pint unit will be sufficient to operate in a 1,000 square foot area.

Finally, if you have a dehumidifier, please be sure to keep the filter clean. Dust, dirt, and debris can get caught in the filter, preventing air from flowing freely and potentially circulating mold spores throughout the home. A simple wipe down with a damp cloth and spray bottle will do the trick to keep you breathing freely and ensure a longer life for your appliance.

Keeping Cool as the Temperature Rises

The summer heat came out of nowhere this year, which left many people with nothing to do but crank up the air conditioning. Sure, a little A/C is a great way to provide fast relief, but keeping it blowing all summer long can do a number on your energy bill and your home. This week I thought I’d put together a few simple tips to help you keep cool, but first, here is a story that might make you rethink your current set up.

A few years ago, I was called to a house in Bristol for a leak repair. When I got to the home, I found that the entire ceiling had fallen onto the dining room table. We hadn’t had rain for weeks, so I was confused how the leak occurred. It turns out that the home had no insulation, and to combat the stifling heat seeping into the house from the attic, the homeowner had two window air conditioning units set on full blast all day. The cold air from the units and the hot air from the attic created condensation at such a high level that it completely deteriorated the plaster, causing the ceiling to fall in.

Having little or no insulation and ventilation in the attic will heat up your home like there’s no tomorrow. Most people think insulation and ventilation are only important in the winter, but they work as regulators, controlling warm air in summer and cold air in winter. Did you know that an attic can easily get up to 150 degrees on a hot summer day? Stand on a chair and put your hand as close to the ceiling as possible. If you feel heat radiating down, you might want to think about getting an inspection.

For a quick fix, one of my favorite tricks is installing an insulated box over the attic stairs. The hatchway between the house and the attic can be a gateway for hot air to get into the main home area, but a simple box frame made from insulated material will seal the gap and help the home stay cooler during these warmer months.

Another quick and easy tip is to purchase a programmable thermostat from the local hardware store. These typically cost around $30 and will allow you to set the temperature according to the times you’re at home. Sure, you may want the house to be 75 degrees before 9am and after 5pm, but during the day when no one is home, keeping the temperature higher will keep your energy bill lower.

Speaking of air conditioning, make sure your units are clean. I know so many people who store their air conditioners in the basement over the winter, where mold can grow and spread inside the filters. This, of course, circulates those spores right into the air you breathe.  Make sure to give all air conditioners a good clean before putting them in, and check and clean the filters and vents regularly to maintain good air flow.  

Use sunblockers or keep the shades drawn when the sun hits your house during certain times of the day. Alternatively, open windows and use fans when the sun goes down and the temperature gets cooler.  

Summer barbecuing is one of my favorite ways to cook, but not just for the taste. Using the oven and stove in the summer can heat up the house substantially, so we tend to cook as much of our meat and veggies in the smoker and on the grill as possible. Also, try to run major electrical appliances, such as dishwashers and clothes dryers at nighttime.  

What’s your favorite tip for keeping cool in the summer? Send me a message on Facebook at www.facebook.com/odonnellbros.

Build that Privacy Fence in a Few Easy Steps

Constructing a privacy fence to border your yard might be high on the “want” list, but with questions around permits, tools, materials, and the physical build, it might be one of those projects that you prefer to put off until next summer.

Last week we talked about some of the rules and regulations around building a fence in our area, as well as the materials you’ll need, and some simple tips to help ease the process. This week, we’ll talk about what you’ll need to do to get that fence up and protecting your yard.

Fences aren’t just your typical wood slats anymore; nowadays they are often constructed in six to eight foot long panels, which can be made from wood, vinyl, steel, or other materials. The panels make a fence much easier to install with a few tools, some precision, and patience.

Once you decide on the type of fence you want and the size of the panels, you’ll start by measuring the area that the fence will border. Draw the fence line with spray paint and then measure the line using a measuring wheel to get the exact length. You’ll also want to mark and measure your gates according to their size. Remember to subtract the gate widths from the total length of the area, as these spaces will not require panels.  

Once you have the area measured and marked, you can determine where your posts should go. One post will need to be installed every six to eight feet, dependent on the length of your panel. Your posts are your anchors so be diligent about this measurement or before you know it, that new fence will come crashing down. You can use chalk lines as a guide, but make sure the post’s position is consistent all around the area.  

Once your posts are marked, you can begin to dig. You’ll need a post hole digger for this part of the project and you’ll want to ensure your holes are at least three times as wide and half as deep. I always suggest digging below the frost line since our winters can get pretty brutal. Once your holes are dug, you can add about six inches of gravel to the hole to ensure proper drainage, followed by around six inches of mixed concrete. Set your post into the hole and level the concrete around it, sloping the mixture slightly away from the post. Now make sure to let it dry according to the time specified on the packaging. Do not install your panels until the concrete has properly cured, which can take up to a few days.  

Once your concrete is set, you can attach the panels using deck screws or nails. The type of fence material you’re using will depend on the best fastener – nails are good for wood while deck screws are a better option of metal or vinyl panels. Either way, make sure your fasteners are long enough to secure the panels tightly. A two or three-inch nail or screw should do the trick, depending on the thickness of your panel. 

Finally, you can attach your gates. Also, if you have them, you can add caps to the fence posts by using a rubber mallet to ensure they fit snugly on top.

There you have it, a brand new fence to keep your family secure and keep out prying eyes. Now go pour yourself a tall glass of lemonade and relax the rest of the afternoon away. I won’t tell! Happy Memorial Day weekend everyone.