Painting Over Mold? The Truth About ‘Quick Fixes’

Mold is unsightly, and I understand that nobody wants to stare at a dark, blotchy patch on their bathroom ceiling or basement wall. Sure, a quick coat of paint seems like an easy way to make the problem disappear. But here’s the thing about “quick fixes”: they’re rarely fixes at all. Especially when it comes to mold.

Painting over mold is one of those home myths that just won’t die. It looks better for a little while, sure. But underneath that shiny new layer of paint, the problem is still there and it’s growing, spreading, and getting ready to bubble its way back to the surface.

Let’s talk about why this happens, what it means for your home, and the right way to deal with it (so you’re not repainting again next month).

Why Paint and Mold Don’t Mix

Mold is a living organism, not a stain. It feeds on organic material like drywall paper, wood, dust, and anything else it can digest. It also thrives in damp, humid environments. When you paint over mold, you’re basically trapping that living organism under a layer of latex and giving it a warm, dark place to multiply.

Even paints labeled as “mold-resistant” don’t kill existing mold; they simply make it harder for new spores to take hold. Think of them as preventive, not curative. Once mold has already started to grow, those spores will continue doing what they do best - eating, spreading, and eventually breaking through the surface again.

That’s why the dark spots you “covered up” always seem to come back, no matter how many coats you roll on. You didn’t solve the problem. You just hid it temporarily.

The Real Risk Isn’t Just Cosmetic

Mold isn’t just an eyesore. Prolonged exposure to mold spores can aggravate allergies, trigger asthma, and cause respiratory irritation, especially in kids, older adults, and anyone with a compromised immune system. Even if your home’s air feels fine, hidden mold can create ongoing air quality problems that only get worse over time. And if it spreads into insulation, behind drywall, or under flooring, you’re looking at a much bigger repair bill later.

So no, it’s not “just a little spot.” It’s a sign of a deeper moisture issue that needs your attention.

How to Fix It the Right Way

Before you paint, you have to address two things: the mold itself and the source of the moisture that caused it. Here’s the right order of operations:

1. Find the moisture source. Is there a roof leak, poor ventilation, a plumbing issue, or a condensation problem? Fix that first. Otherwise, the mold will just come back.

2. Kill the mold. For small areas (less than 10 square feet), you can usually handle it yourself. Wear gloves, a mask, and goggles, and use a cleaner designed to kill mold, not just bleach. Bleach can discolor mold, making it look gone when it isn’t.

3. Remove damaged material. If the mold has eaten into drywall, insulation, or wood, those materials need to go. Scraping and cleaning won’t cut it if the spores have taken root inside porous surfaces.

4. Dry the area completely. Fans and dehumidifiers are your friends. Moisture left behind is an open invitation for mold to start over.

5. Seal and repaint. Once the area is clean, dry, and sound, use a high-quality primer made for problem areas before painting. Products designed for bathrooms or basements help prevent future issues.

Prevent, Don’t Patch

Once you’ve done the hard work, prevention is your best defense. That means improving ventilation, keeping humidity below 50%, and addressing leaks immediately. It also means thinking long-term. Proper insulation, vapor barriers, and routine roof and gutter maintenance all play a role in keeping moisture (and mold) out.

Final Thoughts

Painting over mold might make things look better for a while, but it’s the home-improvement equivalent of spraying air freshener in a garbage can. The only real solution is to stop the problem at the source.

So, before you pick up that roller, step back, figure out what’s causing the moisture, and deal with the mold properly. It’ll save you time, money, and maybe even your lungs.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Don’t Hesitate, Insulate and Ventilate

I have to admit that I’m a big fan of the winter. I love skiing, playing ice hockey and hiking in the snow, but what I don’t love is coming home to a cold house. It’s around this time of year when I start to get calls from people all over town wondering why their home is so drafty and freezing when they’re paying a fortune in heating bills. The answer to their question is almost always a lack of insulation. Unfortunately, over 75% of houses in our area are under-insulated which means that heat is quite literally going through the roof.

Insulation is a cotton-looking fiberglass material bundled in pink or yellow colored rolls that you may have seen in your attic or behind the wall of new construction. It also comes in what we call “loose fill” which can be blown into harder to reach areas. Contractors use insulation between walls, in attics and in basements to retain heat in the house in the winter and keep the heat from getting into the house in the summer. The amount of insulation needed for a home is measured by its R-Value, which equates to its resistance to heat moving through it. Simply put, the higher the R-Value, the better the insulating properties.

Back 50 years ago when many of the homes in Central Connecticut areas were built, R-Value wasn’t a popular unit of measurement. Instead, they kept it simple and measured insulation by its thickness in inches. When a home was constructed, the contractor would put about three inches of insulation into the attic, if any was used at all. Three inches of insulation would give that homeowner an R-Value of about R-10. According to EnergyStar, homes in our area should be fitted with insulation that measures between R-49 and R-60. So if you have a home from the 50’s or 60’s and have never done an upgrade to your insulation, your home is definitely not equipped to handle our harsh Connecticut winters.

If you’re one of those homeowners scratching your head, trying to figure out why the house is so cold, take a trip up into the attic. Chances are your insulation isn’t up to scratch and it’s probably time for an upgrade. As a general guideline, insulation with an R-Value of between R-49 and R-60 will sit at between 19 and 22 inches thick when settled. How does your insulation stack up to that? If it doesn’t, you don’t have to worry - insulation is easy and inexpensive to install and has one of the highest resale values of any home improvement job going.

With any proper insulation job also comes ventilation, which allows air to move through the attic, preventing over and under heating and reducing the risk of mold buildup. We will talk about that in detail next week.

Bob O'Donnell is the owner of O'Donnell Bros, Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro”. All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O'Donnell Bros, Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.