Outdoor Spring Cleaning is Around the Corner

As the weather slowly starts to warm up, the next few weeks offer a great chance for an early spring yard cleanup. While getting the lawn and garden ready for the season seems like a big job, spreading it out over a few mild weekends early in the year can make it much more palatable. Plus, the vitamin D, fresh air, and exercise will do your body and mind a world of good after a long winter indoors. 

If you didn’t clean out your beds in the autumn, now is the time to do it. Cut back any dead debris right down to the ground and prune any shrubs or trees that are overgrown or have been damaged by winter. It’s a lot easier to do this before buds and leaves come, making it more difficult to see what you’re cutting. With that being said, don’t start chopping away at spring bloomers until the buds have formed. If you’re worried about weeds, now is a good time to lay down your landscaper's fabric and mulch new beds. Just be careful to leave space for the plants that you want to come through. 

Don’t let those dead leaves and plant debris go to waste. You can fence off a small area for composting or purchase a tumbler. All that easy-to-break-down yard waste and future food scraps will make fantastic soil for later spring and summer planting. 

If you didn’t reseed your lawn in the fall, it’s not too late. Start by raking up any leaves and branches that have been left behind. Raking also acts as a massage for the ground as it allows oxygen to circulate. I always take it one step further and use an aerator to break up tough, cold soil which gives grass seeds the best chance for survival. Finally, reseed and fertilize to keep hungry birds away.  

If your yard is susceptible to crabgrass, using a pre-emergent will keep weeds at bay. Just make sure you take the proper precautions and don’t apply it near your new grass seedlings as it will kill them off instantly. 

Hardy veggies like broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower are best for early planting, as the same goes for peas as long as the ground is fully thawed. Spinach and lettuces are pretty tough too and can generally be put right into the ground in March if the weather cooperates. 

Finally, it’s too early now, but soon it will be time to start mowing. I always recommend setting the blade as high as it will go, especially if you’ve recently reseeded the yard. It’s smart to tread lightly in the first few weeks to make sure that the grass has time to properly root and get comfortable. Go too short too fast and you’ll have a complicated relationship with your yard for the rest of the season. 

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Early Spring Lawncare Tips for Gorgeous Grass

If a lush lawn is what you’re looking for, the recent rain has helped our grass get off to a good headstart. Now that the colder weather is hopefully behind us for good, there are a few steps you can take to help make sure that yard looks great and green all season long. Here is what you need to know.

Start by performing a soil test. Grass can be finicky and the pH level of your soil will help you to better understand how to treat it. Experts suggest that the pH level should be between 6.0 and 7.0 and your reading will help you to figure out what nutrients your lawn needs. A soil test is always a smart first step so you don’t go out and buy fertilizer and seed that isn’t the right match. A soil test can be done by a professional landscaper or you can purchase a test kit at any hardware store.

Next, it’s time for clean-up. Start by removing any winter debris such as sticks, leaves, stones. Then give your yard a good rake, even if it’s free of debris. Raking will dethatch the lawn, picking out the dead matter that collects on the bottom of the grass blades, closest to the ground. During the winter, thatch is good because it acts as a layer of warmth and protection. But as the temperature rises, it can block new grass from coming up. 

Once the lawn has been dethatched, it’s time for aeration. An aerator is a bit like a manual lawn mower but instead of cutting the grass, it pokes holes in the ground. Aeration is important because all grass needs sun, air, and water to grow. By aerating the lawn, it allows for better air and water flow and lets nutrients get to the roots of the grass more easily. Most people skip this step but I think it’s essential. 

Now I like to treat my lawn with a pre-emergent to help contain weeds. As I mentioned before, grass can be very temperamental, but weeds are strong and will grow in pretty much any condition. If left untreated, they will pop up all over your lawn and compete with grass for sunlight and water. Plus, they multiply and spread very easily. Depending on your soil test and the kind of law you have, a pre-emergent will help to keep those weeds at bay which will help your lawn to flourish.

Once your weeds have been treated, it’s time to reseed any bare spots. Thinning is normal with mature lawns, so you may want to reseed the entire lawn or just portions of it. The type of seed you use will depend on your lawn and your soil, so make sure you consult with the expert at your local hardware store before you buy your grass seed. A spreader makes this job quick and easy but the key is to keep the ground moist to allow the seeds to germinate. 

Finally, it’s time for fertilizer. You’ve worked this hard so make sure to give your grass the best possible chance to survive and thrive. Again, fertilizer is not a one size fits all product, and what’s right for your lawn depends on a number of factors. The key is to make sure the fertilizer you select has the nutrients your lawn needs to grow lush and beautiful. 

With all these tips comes one warning. While you might be tempted to get the mower out, it’s better to start slowly and let the grass grow a bit longer in the early season. If you follow the steps above and give the lawn a good clean-up before mowing, you’ll have longer, thicker, healthier grass all season long. Happy growing!

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.

Crabgrass Begone

With a ton of rain, very high humidity, and hot temperatures, weeds are having a veritable field day this summer. For those of us who love a beautiful lawn, crabgrass is enemy number one and it’s loving every bit of the weird and wild weather we are having.

Crabgrass is just like other weeds in that it likes to take over. Once crabgrass gets its roots down, it spreads quickly, killing healthy grass in its path. Of course, crabgrass dies on its own when it starts to turn cold, but not treating it means it’s more likely to come back. Here’s what you can do today to get rid of it and keep it from ruining your lawn next year. 

The best course of action for crabgrass is a pre-emergent, but that’s only good in the spring before the crabgrass starts to grow, so if you missed it, it looks like you’ll be pulling by hand. That’s right, get out that kneepad because the best way to remove any weed is to pull it out, ensuring the roots come with it. The recent rain should have loosened those roots up a bit so now is as good a time as any.

Once you have the crabgrass out, you can fill in the bare spots with healthy grass seed and plenty of water. It’s important to wait to reseed if you’ve recently sprayed your lawn with weed killer. Water is also key here because the heat does make it tough for grass to grow. 

Now for your mowing. It’s best to keep the grass a bit longer and to let the clippings stay in place to give some nutrients and shade back into the lawn. Three inches is a good, healthy length for both old and new grass.  

If you’re looking for a chemical solution, you can use a post-emergent, but this can be tricky as the wrong product will kill your grass. When in doubt, it’s best to leave this job to a professional landscaper who can advise you on the most appropriate course of action. You don’t want to accidentally burn your whole lawn while trying to save it. 

Don’t forget, treating your lawn with a pre-emergent in the spring is the best way to avoid crabgrass in the first place. Crabgrass starts to germinate when the soil reaches 55 degrees, so it’s a good idea to get out there in April to ensure that your hard work is worth the effort.

Bob O’Donnell is the owner of O’Donnell Bros. Inc., a Bristol-based home improvement company established in 1975. Email your questions for Bob to info@odonnellbros.com with the subject line “Ask the Pro.” All questions may be considered for publication. To contact Bob for your remodeling needs, call O’Donnell Bros. Inc. at (860) 589-5155 or visit http://www.odonnellbros.com. Advice is for guidance only.